| In this series of articles I will explain how to take a | | | | equipment. Soft cotton lead ropes with a brass bolt |
| young/ untrained horse and safely teach it to lead. This | | | | snap are very sturdy and easy to attach or remove |
| will help to deepen your relationship, and the level of | | | | from the halter. It is also fairly "soft" on your hands and |
| communication with your horse. Each article will have a | | | | does not cause you to get rope burn if you chose not |
| systematic approach that will be both easy to | | | | to use gloves. |
| understand, and to teach your horse. I will break down | | | | The next piece of equipment is a dressage whip. The |
| each baby step and teach you how to teach your | | | | reason for a dressage whip is they are a good length |
| horse each lesson. There will be examples in the | | | | (39" to 43") to use easily and quietly during training. The |
| training phase that has corrections and also what | | | | whip becomes an extension of your arm and creates |
| responses to watch for in your horse. My hope is that | | | | a shape or position that the horse understands. It is not |
| this will "demystify" some of the concepts in working | | | | used to punish a horse but rather to reinforce the |
| with young/ untrained horses. | | | | commands given. |
| This article is written on the assumption that you have | | | | An ASTM/ SEI certified helmet is the next piece of |
| already taught your horse to accept a halter. It is also | | | | equipment that is needed, especially when working |
| based on the assumption that you have handled a | | | | with young or untrained horses. I have a strict helmet |
| young or untrained horse before. If you are NOT | | | | policy for all of my students. My philosophy is you can |
| comfortable in handling a young or untrained horse | | | | never be too careful when working with an animal that |
| please consult with a professional trainer. | | | | can weigh around 1000 pounds. |
| Part 1: Overview of Equipment | | | | The final piece of equipment is the arena. I recommend |
| First of all you are going to need several items in order | | | | using a flat wall arena and not a round pen for |
| to make this safe for both you and your horse: | | | | teaching a horse to lead. Using a flat wall helps to keep |
| 1. A halter that is in good condition and is correctly fit to | | | | the horse's body straight. Using a round pen will tend to |
| your horse. | | | | angle the horse's haunches towards you, which can |
| 2. A sturdy lead rope that is also in good condition. | | | | make it difficult to stay out of the "kicking zone". If the |
| 3. A dressage whip | | | | horse's haunches can easily reach you then you |
| 4. A riding helmet that is ASTM/ SEI certified | | | | increase your chances of being kicked. |
| 5. An indoor or outdoor arena (not a round pen, you | | | | The main reason for using an arena is you will a have |
| need a "flat" wall) | | | | a full corridor of aids. The outside wall will actively |
| 6. Gloves (optional, but good protection for your hands) | | | | work as another you on the other side keeping your |
| First of all, the equipment should fit your horse | | | | horse straight. (During riding the outside wall works as |
| correctly. To make sure that we are on the same | | | | your outside seat bone, outside leg, and outside rein.) |
| page I will explain how to correctly fit a halter to your | | | | These aids help to communicate a particular "shape" |
| horse. It should be on tight enough that the throatlatch | | | | you want the horse to follow. The wall will keep your |
| (the piece that lies underneath the horse's throat) is not | | | | horse from turning his haunches away from you and |
| more than couple of inches from the jowls. You want | | | | will not add the extra confusion of not having outside |
| enough space for a couple of fingers to fit between | | | | aids. One last reason for using an arena is if your |
| the throatlatch and the throat. When the halter is on | | | | horse gets away from you then he will not have much |
| you also need to have room to fit two or three fingers | | | | of a place to go. This will make it easier to catch your |
| underneath the noseband and below the cheekbone. | | | | horse and start working with him or her again. |
| The halter should lie no more than an inch below the | | | | Working with a young or untrained horse can increase |
| cheekbone. See figure 1 for horse halter anatomy. | | | | the odds of accidents; safety for both the handler and |
| Figure 1 Labeled Halter | | | | horse must always come first. Next month's article will |
| Remember, the halter needs to be correctly fit to your | | | | focus on the training of your horse, and will go into |
| horse so that is does not slip off or twist around on | | | | details that make this safe, simple, and enjoyable |
| your horses face. If the halter twists around on your | | | | Learn something new every month from Horse Logic. |
| horses face it can cause discomfort, and make training | | | | A new article will be featured every month in From the |
| much more difficult. | | | | Horses Mouth by: Sara McKiness from Horse Logic. |
| A sturdy lead rope is another piece of necessary | | | | |